Looking for an Adventurous Hike?

If you are looking for an adventurous hike while at Machu Picchu, you have a couple of options.

Two mountains rise up behind Machu Picchu, by comparison much smaller than the ring of soaring peaks that surrounds the famed South American lost Inca city. The larger of the two, on the right if you're looking at the classic postcard view, is called Huayna Picchu, which means Young or New Peak in Quechua. (Machu Picchu means Old Peak.) The smaller, on the left, is called Huchuypicchu, which, fittingly enough, means Small Peak. You can climb them both.

To do either of the two treks, you'll need to make your way through the Machu Picchu site to a gated entry in the shadow of the peaks, and leave your name and passport number at the desk. Remember your number (or the time you signed in) so that you can find yourself in the book to sign out again. For safety and conservation reasons, only 400 visitors are allowed to enter this trail each day. A line forms early at the checkpoint to the trail. At 7:00 400 ticket numbers are issued and the first of batch of 200 hikers is slowly released.

1. Huayna Picchu: Huayna Picchu's heart-stopping, bird's-eye view of Machu Picchu and the majestic panorama surrounding it make it the more popular climb.

The climb is steep and at times exposed, and takes about 1 hour each way. Some portions are slippery and steel cables (a via ferrata) provide some support. Decent footwear is important. There is an extremely narrow passage near the summit (a cave). Two cautionary notes: The hike is somewhat strenuous and not advised for visitors who are elderly, pregnant or have heart/lung conditions. Also, the steep stairs and cliffs you must walk along at the summit can be terrifying for those who are afraid of heights. (Read an experience hiking Huayna Picchu in 2002)

• If you have some time at hand, or long for solitude, you can also walk to the Moon Temple (Templo de la Luna) and the Great Cave (Gran Caverne). It's a long walk and adventurous hike involving several ladders. Some may find that the sites aren't really rewarding, but unexpected wildlife can be seen (wild spectacled bears have been reported). This hike is also quite interesting because partway through you leave behind the mountain terrain and enter a more conventional forest. The caves can be reached either by hiking down the trail from the peak of Huayna Picchu (which includes some semi-harrowing but fun near-vertical descents) or by the split from the main Huayna Picchu trail (look for the sign that says Gran Carvern). Remember that it is much easier to descend from Huayna Picchu than to ascend from these temples. Be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks for this long hike. The hike from the summit to the caves and back to the checkpoint takes about two more hours. (sources: Wikipedia & Suite101)

Check out this slide show of Huyana Picchu hike.

2. Huchuypicchu: This smaller peak is only a twenty- to thirty-minute hike and you'll most likely have the place to yourself. There are some stairs and there is one portion of the climb that requires the use of a rope handhold, but overall it's far less steep than Huayna Picchu. This short hike is suitable for families, but you'll want to supervise young children.

From the top of Huchuypicchu, you'll be able to enjoy the same stunning view of the Incan ruins that as you would from Huayna Picchu... just from a bit closer. You'll also have a great view of the single-file trail of hikers toiling their way up Huayna Picchu like industrious ants. Best of all, there is a very good chance that you'll be able to sit and absorb this once-in-a-lifetime sight in solitude and utter silence - something that's hard to come by at wildly popular Machu Picchu.

Make sure to wear a hat and sunscreen and carry plenty of water. It's not the Inca Trail, but you're still hiking in the Andes... as the view will attest.

Humanitarian Aid & Luggage Restrictions

On Tuesday, May 19th we will be visiting a school in the village of Huilloq.
If you would like to bring items for the children or the school, feel free to do so.

Carlos said they could use items like:
Clothing for the children and School Supplies such as pens, pencils, crayons, notebooks

Once we arrive at the hotel in Cuzco we can put everything in duffel bags and then deliver them personally to the school.

I am waiting for Carlos to get back to me with the airline luggage restrictions, but according to their websites, for international flights, Delta allows 2 50lb checked bags. However, within Peru, LAN airlines weight limit is only 20kg (44lbs). If Carlos finds out differently, I will let you know.

Map between Cusco and Machu Picchu

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How to Eat Ceviche in Lima

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The situation: It’s Sunday, and after a night out in Lima, Peru, you’ve found yourself in a cevichería. It’s more, you discover, than a mere place to order ceviche. It’s a cultural institution where lime juice abounds, and the events and misadventures from the previous night are discussed, reenacted and celebrated. Here’s your primer.

When to go: While most cevicherías are open daily, Sunday is traditionally their busiest day and visiting one is a weekly ritual for many Limeños. After partying until dawn the night before in Lima’s discos, you might rest for a few hours but still feel like the bottom of your shoe. The act of going to a cevichería is something that can both refresh and revive; a combination of hair of the dog and raw seafood. The experience begins in the late morning and typically lasts all day; the overindulgence may, on a good day, eclipse that of the night before.

The basics: Early, crude forms of ceviche began to appear in pre-Colombian times in the coastal civilizations of South America where fish was “cooked” with a fruit called tumbo. Later the Incas ate salted fish marinated in chicha, a fermented corn drink, and when the Spanish arrived, they added limes and onions to the mix.

Ceviche preparations vary from place to place—in Mexico, finely diced fish in lemon juice is served with crackers and Tabasco; in Ecuador, ceviche includes tomatoes and is much soupier; in the Andes, chefs use trout—but it’s the Peruvian version that’s recently caught on outside Latin America.

In Peru, ceviche is eaten as a first course or appetizer. The dish requires fresh, quality ingredients; precise and lightning-fast execution; and a basic understanding of spices and acidity. The chef tosses fresh chunks of any firm white fish, such as flounder or sea bass, with onions, bits of Peruvian ají peppers, seasoning and—most importantly—lime juice only minutes before serving. Ceviche isn’t exactly raw like sashimi is raw, though. The acid in the lime actually cooks the fish just before you eat it, resulting in an explosion of taste and texture. In the same dish you’ll find a slice of sweet potato, a few sticks of boiled yucca and a small piece of corn on the cob.

Where to go: Pick up Lima’s restaurant guide, “Guia Gastronomica,” for suggestions, or head to the seaside districts of Barranco and Chorrillos, and look for the crowds spilling into the street from restaurants like Punta Arenas or La Canta Rana. For a step up in price and quality, check out dining options in the Miraflores district such as Caplina or the trendster hot spot La Mar, owned by Lima’s outspoken TV chef Gastón Acurio. At either you’ll find local celebrities and wealthy Limeños sipping on pisco-infused cocktails and noshing on Novo Andino (New Andean) foods, including a lineup of ceviches and tiraditos.

Still, the best cevicherías are a bit out of the way. Sonia, a ceviche shack near the Chorrillos fish market that has grown a fanatic following, is tucked away in a far corner of the city. Sankuay, aka Chez Wong, sits in an unpretentious part of Lima, but the loyal ensemble of BMWs and Mercedes outside give it away as a culinary gem. Inside, chef Javier Wong takes a look at you and decides what you are going to eat. If you don’t like it, then leave.

Order like an expert: To begin, pick at the toasted, salted corn kernels called cancha serrana already on the table, and make your first order. Start with something to drink, say, Leche de Tigre, aka Tiger’s Milk. It’s like a kick in the face. More clearly defined, it’s the tangy juice left over at the bottom of the ceviche bowl served in a tall shot glass. Sometimes it’s mixed with a shot of pisco, a white brandy that is Peru’s national spirit. Throw in a few 32-ounce beers (always Pilsen or Cusqueña) for everyone to share. If dining after a rough night, opt for a pisco sour. Better yet, make it a double.

Next, move on to the goods: ceviche or tiradito. Ceviche comes in many forms: clásico (the traditional mix), mixto (with fish, squid, octopus and scallops), camarón (with crayfish), black conch (said to increase your sexual prowess), pato (with duck), and champiñones (with mushrooms). Tiradito is the modish, young cousin of ceviche. Created by Nikkei (Japanese) chefs in Lima, it relies on the tradition of dousing raw fish in lime juice, but the slices are paper thin and its makers add a spicy ají-based sauce.

Once you’ve finished your ceviche—another round of drinks, by the way, has likely been put on the table without your asking—you can order the rest of your meal. Your second course will be something hearty, and typically served with rice.

Need more starch? Try tacu-tacu de mariscos: day-old rice and beans refried and stuffed with seafood. Something more filling? Lenguado a la macho: flounder in a zesty sauce of onion, garlic, paprika, cilantro and rocoto peppers. Something unusual? Arroz negro: rice cooked in squid ink with sautéed squid, scallops and crayfish. Something multinational? Camarón saltado: a variation of Peru’s favorite Chinese fusion dish with shrimp instead of chicken.

Bask in the benefits: Die-hard connoisseurs will try to sell you the health attributes of ceviche like a can of snake oil—it will prevent sleepwalking, cure a hangover, and even increase your sex drive. While there may be some truth to their words, a visit to a cevicheria will at the very least guarantee good times and a full belly. Buon Provecho!